South American Tour: Rio de Janiero, Brazil

Friday, February 26, 1965 Rio de Janiero, Brazil

We arose at 6:30 AM as the ship was coming into Rio harbor. There were about 40 ships in this Bay of Guanabara waiting for dock space and our ship joined them. Rio is a city of 3,300,000 people it covers an area of 431 square miles and is built on and around 365 mountain peaks with many bays and lagoons. The Santos & union airport for domestic flights is in the down town section and ocean going ships are docked off-port of the main street of the area. 

A word about their money. In "Pan-Am's World Guided," revised in 1961-2 it lists the cruzeiros as 190 to 1 dollar US. In the South American handbook it states that the value had dropped to 920 to 1 dollar US as of 8/14/1963. We exchanged U.S. dollars for 1810 to 1850 while we were there. What a shook to own a home or have money in the bank and watch nearly 90% disappear in less than five years. 

On a tour we visited the Copacabana Beach, the celebrated bathing place, Hunchback Mountain (Corcovado), their one we drove to the top 2330 feet above sea level, the highest of Rio's 365 peaks and on top is a 120 foot statue of Christ the Redeemer. It was a great spot for taking pictures. Twice we tried to take the cable car to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar) but there was a delay of 2 to 3 hours because so many others had same idea.

We made reservations for four at the Copacabana Palace Hotel for dinner at 10 PM and nite show at 12:30. Cover charge 80,000 cruzeiros (about $43.00) for four. At 5 PM we decided to go back to ship to rest and freshen up for our nite on the town. The ship still anchored in Bay so we hired a water taxi for 8,000 cruzeiros. We could have waited until 630 PM and returned in agent's boat for free but we were too exhausted. In fact, we were so warn out that we passed up returning to Copacabana. When we thought of fighting the language barrier for food, water taxi and land taxi, especially at 2 AM we just didn't feel up to it. Coffee from Rio was loaded on the ship from lighters starting at 8 PM. I don't know when they finished their job.

Saturday February 27, 1965 Nite-Roi, Brazil

Sugarloaf

At 6 AM the ship pulled anchor and crossed to other side of bay to dock at the town of Nite-Roi, Capital of the State of Rio de Janiero where more coffee was taken aboard. We rose at 7 grabbed a cup of coffee, went ashore took a taxi to ferry to Rio. There were about 3,000 on their ferry and they run every 15 minutes. It takes about 10 minutes to cross the Bay. Then we took taxi to Sugarloaf to take cable car to top. There was a delay of 1.5 hours but we decided to wait. The trip is made in two stages starting from bahilonia Hill in Praia Vermelha (Red Beaches) to first stop at area 770 feet high. Then we walked across the top and entered a building where we waited forty-five minutes to take another cable car. Finally, our turn came and we went aboard with 20 other passengers. The car travels 2688 feet across land and water haging all of the distance from the cable with no ground support except at each end. At the top of Sugarloaf we are 1300 feet above the Bay from where the mountain rises. At each stop going up and coming down there was a delay to do so many families coming to Rio for the annual carnival which starts today. At noon and lasts until midnight Tuesday - actually each year until the beginning of Ash Wednesday. It was quite a day very humib and very hot in the direct sunlight. Distant scenes will not by too good in the pictures. I took because of the heavy haze. 

Before we left we were noted that ship would sail at three, so we were concerned about connections we would have to make getting out of Rio and the inevitable delays. There's a real language barrier in Portuguese speaking Brazil and it worsens when one is in a hurry, because with these people as with the Spanish it's always "Manana." The connections clicked and we were back on ship at 2 PM. Nevertheless, it had taken us 6.5 hours to make the round trip. The ship left the dock at 4:15 PM and sailed out of Guanabara Bay into the Atlantic at 5:10 heading for and due in Salvador (Bahia) Brazil) 748 miles Northeast, Monday Night.

South American Tour Lima, Peru 1965

Saturday, January 9th Quayaquil to Lima

Up at 5 this morning. It seemed hopeless to get a hold of our passports and make 7 am plane. All of us started phoning. Millie contacted Miss Lola who said she had located our passports and gotten Velasquez's phone number. Millie phoned him and he just wouldn't cooperate, because we had gotten him out of bed and it was the railroads fault for not running on Friday, not his. She begged pleaded and cried but "no go." Then we tried Castro and called the American Consul. Finally, a change came over him a taxi showed up at the hotel, driver had note with my name on it and word "passport." I grabbed Tom Finnerty and away we went. The driver could not speak English so we did not know where we ended at Valasquez Office and he was sitting calmly at his desk. It was now 6 am. I had not even combed my hair...I don't know whether the taxi was the one Braniff sent or not. They had had one out all night trying to locate Velasquez and had found him and he had the four passports. He had taken Finnertys to get them a Peruvian Visa and supposedly the same for Millie and me. Although I had a Peruvian landing card and I already had one. The just wanted the passport for security until we paid for the tour. Finally he started to prepare the landing cards for the Finnerts (I filled ours out in Denver after buying the card from Steamship co. for $4.00 Tom's cost $5.00. then he made out a bill for plane to Quito etc. came to $102.00. It was ten minutes to seven. Tom had called Bea and told them to check out, pay the hotel bill and bring luggage to airfield. We arrived at 7, the girls were there. Then found the plane. It was a New York & Miami one would be an hour late. McBancroft, our ambassador was there also.

We Purchased our plane tickets from Miss Lola and thanked her profusely for the excellent help. She was really a gift from the gods when needed. (She had spent several years there and had some travelling difficulties of her own so she knew what to do with our problems). It took the jet one hour and 30 minutes to cover the 1000 miles to Lima, Peru. We had an excellent breakfast on the plane - the first meal we had had since breakfast in Quito. Off the plane and through immigration (good passport -- the next one is going to get an argument when he wants my passport) and customs. Customs just patted our bags and said OK. But gave Tom and Bea's a good going over. After buying some Peruvian dinner at the airport we took off in a hotel taxi for Gran Hotel Bolivar. Excellent rooms on sixth floor and then a couple of Pisco Punches in tap Room -- the first one on the house. Wives went shopping, Tom and I went for hair cut - Chinese barber spoke Spanish but no English. Karen, our granddaughter who is making a four month visit in Peru came to the Hotel with her Hostess Senora Lopez and her two daugthers, Ana who had spent four months in Karen's home in Tucson and Marie (13 years) also Jose the 15 year old brother. We had lunch in Hotel - $48.00  and they invited us over to their home for a surprise party for Karen's 11th Birthday. In the meantime Joey Murz phoned. We met him in Tucson he works for ASARCO and spent 10 years in Peru. He was going to the party and would pick us up. Then Heather Sprague phoned. They were also coming to the party and she invited the Lopez family, Karen aned us to Lunch on Sunday. We took a nap, dressed and left hotel with Joey for party, around 5. the party was an example of Spanish Culture and manners. There were 11 Peruvian girls there with adult friends dropping in all evening. Many of them brought Birthday gifts. The girls danced square dance, tangos, cha-cha etc. One played accordion. Food never stopped coming with soft drinks. The Lopez took us to hotel about ten Mr. Lopez who also works for ASARCO, is Caja Metro, 844 Kms north,  where the company has a branch. He is an Engineer.

Sunday, January 10, 1965 Lima

We were called at 8. Had breakfast, packed, checked out of hotel and left baggage at desk. The Lopez with Karen called for us at ten and we toured Lima and surrounding residential areas and the beaches ending up at the Spragues at 12:30 for lunch. Left Spagues with Lopez stopped by Hotel for bags and ran into Tom Finnerty. he said they had picked up a tour agent who was arranging trip for them to Cuzco and Machu Pichu, 3 dars for $109 and $30 more would get them to Ilo to rejoin ship. With the Comedy in errors on the Quito Andrean trip so fresh in my mind I wasn't too interested in the Spanish brand of tour agents but Millie warmed up to it as she wanted to see the Inca headquaters which was so well hidden that it wasn't discovered until 1911. So we told Tome to get two trips for us and then we left for the ship in Callao in the Lopez car. Mrs. Lopez parked car outside the gate and we picked up luggage and walked over to gang plank, there a guard stopped us and called a customs officer. Jose and his mother jabbered away in Spanish with the two officers. It appeared I couldn't take the luggage on board until it had been inspected by customs, this customs officer couldn't do it and the officer where it would have to be done was booked until Monday. The discussion went on for 15 minutes. I went on board to get the bursar, he went to get some one else. I returned to the melee when I notice Jose carrying the luggage up the gang plank. He said they had changed their mind they could inspect the baggage and would do it in my cabin. I opened one bag and that was it. It cost me two cartons of cigarettes. I still don't know what it was all about. The bags had been inspected when I landed the day before and carried the approval stamp.

At 6 PM the Bursars informed us we would have to let him know definitely whether we are staying on ship or taking another land trip. It appears the ship must carry papers as well as the agent with the exact whereabouts of their passengers. One cannot stay away over night without a definite reason for the police. This was news to us. Millie walked along the dock for 5 blocks to a phone ot call Tom Finnerty to see if he had gotten our reservations for Cuzco. Then she learned Tom had been inquiring around and found that the planes used on part of the trip were having maintenance trouble and were frequently delayed. The manager at the Bolivar Htoel told him it was not a trip to be taken on a tight schedule. Tom and Bea backed out and we considered our trip postponed.

Monday, January 11, 1965 Lima

Had a good sleep on the Porsanger. Difficult to get up for breakfast, but made it. Rays Mortin and wife had left at five for Cuzco trip. The Nelsons were going in a separate group but they had a joint Peruvian landing card and it wasn't acceptable to the powers that be. They had to wait for immigration to open. Dorothy Wilson is going with them. We walked five blocks to a phone to call Rod Sprague, mgr of Northern Peru Copper Co and tell him we wouldn't be in Ilo, Peru until Friday. He was trying to arrange a trip to the smelter. Also phoned Karen that we would send her camera which she had left on the ship, to the agents office in Lima. Later learned it went to agent in office in Callao. Hope the Spaniards can figure it out for her. The Finnerty's showed up at 11 am and walked aboard with their luggage without immigration looking there way. Shortly thereafter Senora Ida de Avirta and daughter came abroad. They were friends and neighbors of the Finnertys in Arcadia Calif. and now returned to live in Lima. Our 11 am sailing was set back to 3 PM so they took us for a ride around Callao, returned to ship at two. had sandwiches in our cabin. Ship took off at 3:15 pm for Huacho which is north of Callao but passed on the way south because too many ships were waiting. Then we took a nap until 5:30. had dinner on ship and chatted in lounge. Shipp approached Huacho at 8:45 PM and dropped anchor. The City Lights were very attractive. Will see the town in the daylight tomorrow. The sea is slightly rough due to the cold Humboldt current rushing north along the coast. Streams from the antarctic and cools off the coast line along the tropics and also makes for excellent fishing in Peru. It also rolls the ship somewhat in this unsheltered harbor.

 

South American Tour: Balboa, Panama (1964-1965)

Monday, December 28, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

We were on our way to Balboa Canal Zone at 5:30 am, so I am told. Millie and I slept until 10. Lazy day, smooth sea. Saw lots of fish, porpoise, sail fish, tarpon. I swam in ship's pool this PM. The water from the sea was a delightful 75 degrees. We are in sight of land most of the time.

Tuesday, December 29, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

Slept late. Awoek with headache and upset stomach. Millie not feeling too good. Later we felt we had picked up a bug in the salad we ate for lunch at the Hilton in Acapulco. We have and will continue to refraing from drinking water or milk when off ship. Also to leave fresh vegetables and fruits alone. I thought perhaps the Hilton could control their products but apparently not. I slept most of the afternoon and ate little dinner.

Wednesday, December 30, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

Decided to get up for breakfast instead of sleeping. On our previous trip we had access to pantry and we could prepare toast and coffee. On this ship the pantry is locked. So we will probably get up in the future. We both feel ill and to make matters worse we had run into a gale making the sea rough. However, it did not pitch or rock as much as the Flying fish. We went back to bed after breakfast. Got up for a big lunch and went back to bed. Got up and dressed for cocktail and enjoyed a good dinner. The wind went down with the sun and the sea became smooth again. Everyone went on deck it was most delightful. Due in Balboa, Canal Zone Friday noon. Played Bingo in the lounge until ten, then had a gab-fest for the late go-to-bedders.

Thursday, December 31, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

Weather balmy, sea smooth, saw land on port side. Every once in a while. Captain gave cocktail party at 5 PM in lounge. Dinner at six. After dinner had more drinks in lounge Bea Finnerty was doing a solo dance in stocking feet on slippery tile floor when she slipped and fell on shoulder and a gash over right eye. Frantz, the Chief Steward patched her up. Then we slipped away to the officers mess to celebrate New Years Eve.

Friday, January 1, 1965 Balboa, Panama

Miraflores Locks

We opened the new day and the new year with parking the ship at 6 am out in the Bay of Panama - expecting to be there all day. However, a pilot came out and the ship was docked. We took taxi with Finnerty's, five other passengers another taxi. All of us were going to visit some noted park. On the way we saw a sign inviting visitors to see the Miraflores Locks on the Pacific side of Canal so we left the other five. On the side of the locks there is an observatory which overlooks the locks which is glass enclosed and covered, with a bilingual guide to talk about the operation and answer questions. We watched ships going in each direction thru the two locks at that point. We returned to Balboa Railroad station to take the train for the 48 mile ride across the continental seaside (271 Elv) and Isthmus to Cólon and Cristóbal. We walked about 12 blocks thru Cólon to Sea. Washington Hotel for lunch and discovered we were too late and too early for dinner. Took Taci back to yacht Club in Cristóbal where we had an excellent broiled lobster meal - $200 panama is the only country which does not have any paper money of its own. If they did it would be called Balboa, but they use Us paper money instead. Pretty smart as then no fluctuation. We took a taxi ride around the two towns and then back to RR station for return to Balboa at 6:30 (from coast to coast and return in an afternoon)

Train to Colon

Saturday, January 2, 1965 Balboa, Panama

Balboa

Posted time for sailing was 12 noon, so we hustled away by taxi for Panama City in Republic of Panama which is about 3 miles from Balboa. There are many excellent shops, drug stores/farmacias, and a number of camera stores. We made the rounds and taxied back to ship. It was still unloading. We had lunch and sailing time postponed to 2:30 PM. I walked about 1/2 mile to Balboa Post Office to mail film for processing. Al-tho the canal zone was in U.S. territory, U.S. Stamps are no good for postage, it must be Canal Zone Stamps - probably printed in Wash DC. When I returned found sailing time had been set back again. Millie and Finnerty's had gone into Panama City looking for me on the way but I had wandered off the beaten track to take some pictures. In late afternoon, we visited the United Fruit boat tethered on other side of our dock. The passengers were quite unhappy. They had inspected our ship in the morning and had seen passenger accommodations. They had no air conditioning, cabins were cramped, windows were port holes, and they were told while we were there that they would have to leave the ship to go to hotel and wait for another ship which would take them to Baltimore and pay their own expense from there. Originally they expected to return to New Orleans. We sailed at 6:15 pm. It was a beautiful balmy evening.

South American Tour 1964-1965 (Manzanillo, Mexico)

Wednesday, December 23 1964 (Enroute to Manazanillo)

The train was derailed and the cotton did not arrive for someone forgot to tell the Captain that's Mexico. We sailed for Manzanillo 318 n. miles away at 6 AM. At noon we had gone 74 miles leaving 244 to go. Time was advanced one hour as we went on Central standard time. The sea was still smooth a school of sharks was observed converting in the glassy sea and twice we saw large birds standing on the surface. When the binoculars were put on then we could see there were large turtles floating on the survace. In the evening all the passengers gathered in the lounge and sang christmas songs. Two of them would sing solos and dutes. Bridge topped off the day.

Thursday, December 24 1964 (Manazanillo)

The Porsanger docked in the harbor at Manazanillo at 5:30 AM. I got up at seven. Millie stayed in bed. Her legs bothered her and her ankles were swollen. All other passengers went ashore to see the town which began at the wharf. Many of the people live on the sides of the steep hills which rise from the level streets of the town. I bought some picture postcards, one peso each eight cents (strictly a tourist commodity) and a 2 oz bottle of ink, Sheaffer Skrip, azul-negro, $4.75(pesos) 389.

We were back at 10:45. Cargo was still being loaded and continued so for two hours. Ship left dock at 1:30 PM for acapulco. Sea calm, temp 79.

At 5 PM the passengers joined the officers and crew on deck to celebrate their regular Christmas Eve Party. Cocktails for all and everyone shook hands with a "Merry Christmas" wish to all of the others. With each wish there is a "Skaal" and as there were about 42 people present it became very sticky. Presents were passed out to the ships personnel some from home and at least three from societies in Norway and one in Seattle which sent Xmas gifts to sailors all over the world. The officers joined us for dinner and afterwards we sang Christmas songs in English and in Norwegian. The party lasted until 1 PM.

South American Tour 1964-1965 (Mazatlan Mexico)

Friday, December 18,  1964 En route to Mazatlan

Full day at sea. At noon, ship was 29˚08’ N. Lat. 116˚16’ E. Long, had traveled 292 nautical miles from L.B. Laving 719 to go to next port. WE average 15.29 knots per hour. Air temperature was 61˚, sea temp was 61˚.

Saturday, December 19, 1964

Bright sunny day (La soles frillo) Captain announced Cocktail Party for passengers at 5 PM. Dinner at six. It was our first evening to be quite mild. All of the passengers spent most of the early evening on deck.

Shopping List: was stuck between pages.

Sunday, December 20, 1964 Mazatlan

We passed up breakfast and slept until 10 am. Actually only 9 as clocks were advanced one hour for the different time zone we were in. Weather quite warm good breeze. Hop to off Mazatlan about 12:30 PM to watch for Pilot. Mazatlan is spread along the Mexican Mainland at the foot of the lofty Sierra Madre Mountains and opposite the top of Baya California. It is the largest Mexican Port on the Pacific. The exceedingly long beach is fringed with grooves of cocoa palms, a south sea island theme. After lunch we learned the Pilot would not come aboard until 7 AM tomorrow, so we spent a lazy warm afternoon, I listened to radio shortwave of Buffalo Bills playing at Boston in a snow storm.

Mexican Pesos

Monday, December 21, 1964 Mazatlan

I awoke a few minutes before seven and realized the ships was under way. It was slowly heading for the narrow opening between the ends of the breakwater. A tug assisted in leading to dock and after tieing a line, procided to push the ship so it would face the open sea when ready to sail. This was necessary as there was only dock space for four ships.

We were ready to go ashore. All details with customs and immigration were handled by Purser. We started out with the Nelsons. It was truly a Mexican town, population of 50,000. We were impressed that we were not approached by a single child or adult begging for a handout and only one person persistently followed us trying to sell us (a small rug) on the street. Weather was very mild, good breeze. We covered quite a few miles walking and returned to ship for lunch. I took a short nap then a walk by myself over to hotel and beach section. Millie stayed in bed all afternoon to rest her tired feet. After dinner on ship, ten of us took a city bus at dock gate for a round trip fare 40 centavos - 3.2 cents. It was a wild ride over some very bumpy roads with the driver turning sharp corners with abandon. Topped off the day with bridge.

Tuesday, December 22, 1964 Mazatlan

Expected to sail in PM. Ten of us took bus into town and another one (no transfer) that ran north out of town along the beach and then the residential, motel and hotel section. We went to the end of the line and then climbed some famous promontory jutting into the sea. The name of which escapes me for the moment. Back to town on the next bus wanted to look over the hotels but time did not permit so we hailed a dock bus and contributed our fourth 3.2 cents for quite a few miles of transportation. We arrived at 12:15 PM and were told the ship would not sail until Wednesday as there was some cargo (cotton) coming from the interior which was delayed and would not arrive until late tonight and that stevedores would work all night. Sailing time 6 AM 23

South American Tour 1964-1965 (Long Beach)

Tuesday, December 15 1964 -- Long Beach

Arose early for us - 8 am. We had a delightful breakfast at 8:30. Only the Captain, Chief Engineer and First officer eat in the Passengers Dinning Room and they are on a separate table. 

Weather partly cloudy and cool. Sea very calm. Passengers are permitted up in the bow and as there was little wind we spent a number of hours there.

Lunch was a surprise - a smorgasbord with many choices. This is daily and there are from 32 to 37 platters on serving table. Everyone is well satisfied with the food and its preparation. Millie and I took a two hour nap in room. Had an excellent dinner and then went on deck to watch the approach of Long Beach. I determined that L. B. had dock facilities there are 2204 acres in the area. We docked at 8:15 PM and we went ashore with Hilding and Elaine Nelson. Window shopped, made a few purchases and walked back to ships. 

Wednesday, December 16 1964 -- Long Beach

Up at 8 AM. Breakfast at 8:30. It is a beautiful day. Took a Taxi into town. Bought odds and ends - much cheaper than in S.F. It is an easy place to find lunch. Millie had an 12:30 appointment for permanent. We expected Ham and Ev Ridgeway (they are former Denverites now living in NO. Hollywood. He works for 3M) to visit us after dinner. But Ham had the "flu" so they didn't show up. So we had the hors d'oevures with the passengers. Then we played bridge with the Nelsons. Following an hour class on Spanish taught by one of the passengers who had lived in Mexico for a number of years. Millie discovered at bed time that the permanent had hurt her hair and it was breaking off and combing out in hand fulls.

Thursday, December 17 1964 -- Long Beach

Sailing time posted for 4 PM. Millie went back to hair dresser immediately after breakfast. I walked around the docks and took pictures the brochure on the Port of Long Beach states that in 1963 it was second to New York in collection of custom duty reserve. Millie returned at 3:300 PM w a hair dresser and an assist and a wig. They started to fit the wig to her head. It became a race against time. The passengers came in an said 3 minutes. They left as the crew stood by waiting to remove the gangplank. The ship sailed a few minutes after 4 PM. Out in open sea the surface was very calm some wind. After dinner all came to lounge at 8:30 "Rags" Montin gave the passengers another Spanish lesson.