South American Tour: Panama Canal, Canal Zone to Buenaventura, Columbia to Long Beach

Wednesday, March 17, 1965 Enroute to Canal

St. Patrick's Day! The Nelsons, Bradfords and Dorothy Willison hosted a party in honor of the Finnertys and the other passengers. It was Planter's Punch and hors d'oeuvres for cocktail hour, red and white wine for dinner and cordial following games were played in the lounge. 

We had arrived in Limon Bay inside the brian water at 1 PM. There were a dozen other ships anchored nearby. We received the "news" shortly as an official boat came by and said we were scheduled for 8 PM tomorrow night, Thursday -- a 31 hour layover. Life hasn't changed a bit -- its still "mañana" -- Par for the course. The party helped to pass the time. Last year we went from the Pacific to the Atlantic. One can't say from west to east as the eastern end (Atlantic) is 27 miles west of the Pacific entrance.

 

Thursday, March 18, 1965 Panama Canal

This was the most uneventful day of the trip. We walked the decks and looked at the ships thru our glasses and tried to figure what was causing the delay. We didn't. Today there were 17 Northbound (Pacific to Atlantic) and 23 Southbound ships put thru the Canal, according to the official report. The Canal Pilot arrived by boat at exactly 8 PM. Our Captain came to lounge a few minutes later and said the passengers might use the flying bridge to observe progress thru the Canal. The anchor was hauled up and we were on our way. The moon was full as it had been on February 26, 1964, the last time we went thru. The ship traveled slowly. 

Gatun Locks

We are disappointed that we are going thru a second time at night. However, there is a possibility we may still see part during daylight. The Captain has been informed that the ship is to stop, anchor and wait for orders to proceed, as soon as we leave the Gatun Locks and enter Gatun Lake. If we stay there all night it will be a daylight trip for the rest of the way. It's midnight and all the passengers are going to bed. Starting of the Disel's will wake some and they will arouse the heavy sleepers. The ship has covered only 8 miles of the 50 to get to the Pacific. We decided to sleep thru the trip thru Gatun Lake and be called as it entered Gaillard Cut. It seems we only stop for two hours. That's the way the cards fell and we were on deck at 3 AM. It was slightly cool and very humid, with a full moon shining. The Canal is very narrow but well lighted all of the way. At the 40th mile we were into Pedro Miguel Locks and at 41 the two at Miraflores which lowered the ship back to sea level. Then we passed Balboa and saw the lights of Panama City and out into the Pacific where the ship headed south for our second stop at Buenaventura Columbia. We weren't impressed on our first visit January 4 and 5, 1965 so we will try to go over to Cali and then hope we can fly to Bogota the Capital.

Friday March 19, 1965 Enroute to Buenaventura

 Today's cool and humid we are 7°-8° North of the equator. The passengers spent all or part of the day catching up on lost sleep. I went to bed at 5:15 AM while Millie and Bea made toast and tea in the kitchen. Tomorrow, Buenaventura. There is a Question of whether we will be able to dock or must anchor and wait.

Saturday, March 20, 1965 Buenaventura, Columbia

The ship anchored a short distance from shore at 6 AM. At 7:30 AM it moved into dock. We were told then that we would sail out Sunday Night. This short stay eliminated the train trip to Cali and then a flight to Bogatá. Millie was sick during the night and was not interested in going anywhere. The Finnertys and Nelsons hired a taxi to go to Cali, about a four hour drive, stay all night and to return tomorrow. In mid-morning Millie and I took a walk around the town. We liked it better than when we were here in January. It was quiet and humid in the sun. Millie went to bed in PM and I walked over to town to get a haircut. The barber spoke no English and understood less. It was the cheapest I’ve ever had. Next one will be in the States. That last one cost me 4 pesos, about $.28 U.S. and that’s what it was worth.

Sunday, March 21, 1965 Buenaventura, Columbia

Victor Bradford has arranged for a small motor boat for the morning. Six went along. The little boat had a capacity of 12 and was powered by a new Johnson Twin outboard motor. It was an unusual trip. We went far into the jungle, the Rio Agua Clara rapidly narrows and we went in until there was scarcely any room to turn around.

Monday, March 22, 1965 Buenaventura Columbia

Buenaventura Columbia

Sailing time has been changed several times. This morning it is set at 4 PM depending on coffee. We are to take on 5000 in 4 pound bags. In the AM we visited the Grase Line ship Santa Mercedes. It carries 120 passengers and cargo. This Afternoon some of the passengers visited us. Word came at 3:30 PM that sailing would be at 4 PM and so it was. 

It was alos raining very hard at that time, the first time on the trip that the ship has traveled in the rain. Next stop Los Angeles, understand English is largerly spoken there!

Tuesday, March 23, 1965 – Wednesday, March 30, 1965 Enroute to Long Beach

This will be the longest non-stop run for the ship. It is 3046 nautical miles to Long Beach from Buenaventura. We move from 7°26’ to 36°25’ N. Latitude and from 79°00’ to 122°03’ N Longitude. The first three days the sea was quite rough and then it became delightfully smooth.

It was not quite a non-stop run. On Monday, March 29^th, the motors stopped while we were eating dinner a few minutes later the Captain was called from the table. He came back later and said that one of the pistons had gone bad and there would be a 4 to 5 hour repair of it. The crippled diesel was staled and the ship was moved about five miles out of the ship lanes and then stopped for the overhaul. It was too deep to drop anchor so we just floated around. The air temperature stayed around 86° to 81°  the first 4 days, dropped to 77° the fifth day, to 63°  the next- the day we had motor trouble. As we neared Long Beach the air temperature dropped to 62° with wind and rain and then to 54° at San Francisco.

The ship was supposed to dock at Pier 41 in San Francisco which is adjacent to Fisherman’s Wharf. This would have been most convenient for us as our motel was only ten minutes away. We had also made reservations for the Bradfords who had joined the ship in Buena Aires.

However, there were so many bags of coffee in the hold that had to be unloaded before getting to the other cargo, it was necessary to dock at the Alameda Encinal Terminal across the Bay. The U.S. Custom Officers permitted us and the other passengers to leave the ship that night with overnight bags and leave the rest of our accessories (32 bags and boxes) on board until Monday when the ship would be at Pier 41. We were fortunate in having a ship supplier salesmen who came aboard offer to take the four of us over the Bay Bridge to San Francisco as he lived in the neighborhood, he dropped us at the Alpha Motor Inn. It was just midnight and our South American Tour was over.

Note from B-Dog: This is the end of the South American Tour by Ernest and Millie Saegart. I found the journals very interest especially as a time stamp from two people living in Southwest United States in 1960's. Just a note on Ernest. He was born in Connecticut in April 28, 1898 to Arthur Saegart and Cora (Sackett) Saegart and Died December 9, 1966 so about a two years after this trip was taken. 

A note about Mildred "Millie" (Elwell) Saegart she was born June 17, 1905 in New York to Raymond S. Elwell and Grace (Hutchinson) Elwell. She lived until February 24, 1994. Which means I have vague memories of her, which mostly involve dressing up her dogs in doll clothes, and trying to avoid getting lipstick on my teeth. 

South American Tour: Barranquilla and Cartegena Columbia

Saturday, March 13, 1965 Enroute to Barranquilla

The ship left Port of Spain, Trinidad last night at 9 PM. and headed west and slightly north too far off the coast of Venezuela to see land. Our destination in Barranquilla, Columbia. This is the only South American country that fronts both on the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. We were on the Pacific side at Buenaventura on Jan 3, 4 &5 and our schedule calls for return. Barranquilla is a modern city of half a million seven miles up the Magdalena River, one of the great waterways of the Western hemisphere. It is the largest port and also the newest by about 200 years.

Sunday, March 14, 1965 Enroute to Barranquilla

This was the day of the flying fish. There was a bright sun and the sea was relatively smooth. As the ship plowed thru the sea and threw out it's wake, it apparently frightened the flying fish which were near the surface and hundreds of them in scholls of 100 or more and also singles appeared. Tom Finnerty won the daily pool on the number of miles the ship covered in the last 24 hours, so he put on a cocktail party at 5 PM.

Monday, March 15, Barranquilla

The ship docked at 9 AM. We arose early and packed a suitcase and hired a taxi to tour the city and then take us to Cartagena, the next stop for our ship, 85 miles southwest by road. It wasn't quite that simple! The driver, he spoke English mas o menos (more or less) agreed to give us the tour and then turn us over to his brother who had a better car, for the trip to Cartegena. The deal had several loose ends, but it was the best we could negotiate. The Finnertys were on this one, too.

We had a very delightful morning with a little shopping thrown in. We were able to buy some black market money at $13.70 pesos to the dollar, $9.99 to $1.00 is the official rate. We had lunch at the Country Club thru the courtesy of our ship's agent. During the morning we drove thru the market place which is most picturesque, with every thing from fruit to flamingos awaiting. Fish is halled direct from dugout canoe to customers on canal side of market. At four we drove to Del Prado Hotel to exchange cars and drivers. After a short delay both appeared. Our new drive also could speak some English. He had played ball with the Miami Hurricanes a few years back. At 4:30 PM we left for Cartegena over the Pam Am Highway. It was narrow, but paved except for about two miles on entering the city. The driver had to clear our trip with the local police before leaving town.

There were a number of check hales but that is par for the course. They are not repaired until Traffic is stopped. We arrived about 7:30 PM. We had intended to go to the Bahia Hotel but the drive stopped in front of a very new and good looking hotel. He went in to check on price and came back with a card -140 pesos with 30% discount about $7.00 for double. It was the Hotel Americano and had been opened only 3 months - of the 10 floors only half were completed. It has the only government licensed gambling Casino in town, but we couldn't go in because Tom and I didn't bring coats with us. We had a wonderful lobster dinner for less than $200 a piece and a view of the Caribbean, the beach and the canal. The Hotel was to secure a Taxi with English speaking driver for tomorrow.

Tuesday, March 16, 1965 Cartegena, Columbia

Cartegena lies on a sandspit of the warm shimmering Atlantic seacoast, the Spanish Main of history. It has a population of 100,000 good beaches and an excellent climate. Sir Frances Drake succesfully sacked the city about 1550. Then 70 million was spent on fortification and outer and inner walls surrounded the city and forts at advantageous points. Parts of the walls are still standing and in good condition. They are 40 feet high and 50 to 75 feet wide. We drove along the top of it. We visited San Felipe fort which was outside the walls and across a lagoon. It has an escape tunnel which descends by ramp about 300 feet, passes under the lagoon and exists in the inner wall into the city: it was never necessary to use the tunnels as an emergency. In 1741 Admiral Vernon led a British fllet of 190 ships and 27,000 men against the city. He was defeated.

Breakfast was finished at 7 AM and we found our driver waiting in the lobby. We toured the residential area where we saw some of the finest homes in SA, then we drove to the ship to check on departure time and to leave the suitcases. Sailing was set for two and we were to be back at one. Then we started out again.

We drove to the top of La Popa, highest observation point for many miles. From here we can see that the largest entrance to Cartegena is deceptive. This Boca Grande allows water to flow, but ships cannot pass as an artificial reef blocks the mile wide channel. The Spaniards, in 1741, installed a masonry wall across the entrance, a magnificent engineering feat! Boca Chica six miles south and behind Tierra Bomba Island is the only entrance for ships.

We then drove over to the Fort of San Felipe. The church and monastery of St. Peter Claver was visited. He was a Jesuit who dedicated his life to helping slaves. he baptized more than 300,000.

When we went out for dinner last night we left the glass door to the canal ajar and the lights on. This morning Millie was covered with insect bites. Some of which raised some big welts. There are no window or door screens in SA. The ship sailed at five o'clock for the Panama Canal. We hope we can go thru in the daytime last year it was at night.

South American Tour at Sea, Bridgetown, Barbados, Port of Spain, Trinidad

Friday, March 5th 1965 to Wednesday, March 10th 1965 at Sea

We will have six full days at sea to rest, relax, eat, sleep and to catch up with our correspondence. The weather is marvelous with a bright sun and a cool breeze. Today the air temperature is 84° and the sea 82°. At noon, the ship is 9°46' south of the equator - slightly less than 600 nautical miles. A nautical mile is one and one-seventh land miles. It is also equivalent to one minute of latitude. 

Saturday night, the Captain entertained first with cocktails. The Steward came in to the lounge and told the passengers that they would be a slight delay on the dinner hour as the cook was drunk. We were all astonished as he was such a nice person, the cook that is. We were called at 6:30 instead of 6:00 and all the passengers paraded to the dining room and found it bare. The dinner was served on the after deck complete with red and white wines and beer and liqueurs for after dinner drunks. It was a most delightful evening. The cook was sober!

On Sunday, March 7 the ship recrossed the equator with out incident or ceremony at 12:25 pm there was a nice breeze so it wasn't even hot. At noon the air temperature was 82°. In the afternoon, Millie and I; and some of the other passengers, took a swim in the ship's pool. It was the third day in a row that we went in the pool, something I haven't done that often since I was a kid.

Monday and Tuesday it was quite rough. At 10 PM Wednesday we came into Bridgetown, capital of Barbados Island. As we approached the dock we knew we were out of South America. The workspace was large, the storage sheds attractive and everything was neat, clean and tidy. Bea Finnerty, Millie and I went to town in agent's car. Not a thing was open so he brought us back.

Thursday, March 11 1965 Bridgetown, Barbados

There wasn't cargo to be handled here so we were told the ship might sail at six. With the Finnertys we hired a taxi for the day for $20 US and toured the island population 114,000. I don't believe there is 500 whites on the island. It is 21 miles long and 14 miles across a it's widest point. It would be a member of the Federation of West Indies but they can't decide who gets the Capital, so a deep freeze is on. We drove around the island of Barbados. It is very charming. Their main crop is sugar cane. The ship left at 6 PM and headed for Port of Spain on the island of Trinidad.

Friday, March 12 1965 Port of Spain, Trinidad

The ship arrived in the Gulf of Paria at 6 am and docked at the Capital city at 7 am. The island is about 50 miles long and 30 miles wide and has a population of 850,000 of which 47% are Africans, 36% East Indian, 3% Europeans 2% Chinese and the rest mixed. More than 200,000 tourists visit the island from December to April of each year. There are Muslim Mosques, Hindu Temples and bazaars. There are wonderful roads, beautiful scenery and fine bathing beaches. The climate is a splendid and the nights are cool. The island altho in the West Indies is only seven miles from Venezuela.

English efficiency exists everywhere. The town and the island are neat and clean. It is stil a British territory and is combined with Tobago an island 18 miles to the north for administrative purposes. Port of Spain has a population of 95,000. We took a tour of the town and then the island. Our driver was a Hindu who spoke excellent English as do most of the inhabitants - with a British accent. We returned at 5 pm noting a 9 pm departure. We could have gone to a local nite club they put on early shows for departing tourists but we were too exhausted to be seeking culture.

Trinidad Dollar

South American Tour: Salvador, Brazil

Sunday, February 28, 1965 Enroute to Salavador, Brazil

Millie was sick with upset stomach during night and stayed in bed until dinnertime. Though quite warm, the wind blew at gale proportions and made the deck uncomfortable and the sea very rough.

Monday, March 1, 1965 Salavador, Brazil

Sea much more calm. The temperature of the sea at noon was 88° and of the air 84°. At that time we were exactly 15° south of the equator -- 900 miles. Actually the ship will travel quite a bit farther to reach the equator as it will go in a northwesterly direction as soon as it passes the bulge on Brazil's eastern shore line.

The ship approached Salavado about 8 PM. From the ship, the extensive lighting seemed to indicate quite a city. At 9 PM the anchor was dropped a mile of shore and the passengers knew that was it for the day.

Sao Salavador da Bahia de Todos os Santos to give the town its full name is the capital of Bahia state and fourth largest city in Brazil. The population is about 700,000. The city is divided into two sections with the Baica or lower part and the alta or higher part on a small plateau some 200 feet above. The lower city has the commercial quarter and the picturesque market with its negro vendors. The government building, shopping district, hotels and restaurants area are in the upper city reached by motor roads and four elevators and two cable car systems.

Tuesday, March 2, 1965 Salavador, Brazil

One note very few people with white skin here. It is claimed Brazil is the best or worse integrated country in the world and here is the best or worse city. The South American handbook (1965) states that in all of Brazil 61% are white and multiracial about 21% and 15% black.

It's the last day of the "Carnival" and our ship is still anchored out in the bay. Nine of us boarded a water taxi for shore, took an elevator to upper level area and walked over to the central square. There was a temporary reviewing stand with a large platform for the entertainers. It was 10 AM and there was only impromptu dancing going on and only a few in the stand. We asked the soldiers on duty if we could rest in the stand and take pictures. The Vector Bradford our new passengers handled the language barrier easily. They have lived in Argentina for years. They were told to go to their headquarters - about 200 feet away - and get a pass. Imagine our surprise when we learned the passes were good until midnight.

We entered the stand at 11 am and picked seats shaded by large trees. Still only a few people in stand. Millie and I staged until 7 PM. Most of our group remained until 11 PM. It was one continuous round of rhythm dancing by one group followed by another each allowed about 10 minutes. The populace were certainly on their best behavior which was unusual for a carnival. However we learned that the sale of liquor is forbidden during carnival time, which helps a lot. Also, there were many police stationed around. It was apparent that they were well trained from the way of handling the crowds and the individuals. I have never seen so many people packed so tightly in such small places. I took lots of movies.

Wednesday March 3 1965 Salvador, Brazil

"Ash Wednesday" Lent has started and the S.A. Carnivals are over until next year. Our ship came into dock in early morning and we are spared the trouble of securing a water taxi. The Fennertys, Millie and I took a taxi tour of the town and we were highly impressed by the beautiful homes and excellent landscaping.

Our ship is to take on a load - 700 tons of castor oil at the port, but no one seems to know where the oil is and the local agent can't be located.  The oil showed up late in the afternoon in a lighter being towed across the bay with a most decrepit tug. It took an hour and a half to get the large load in place and anchored, the steam line for pressure was broken and had to be extensively unpaired and other details. Then the crew wanted to attach the steam line to our ship's system. Our vessel is a motor ship (diesel) and not a steam ship. The only steam we have is a small boiler for hot water and not big enough to operate the steam pump on the lighter to raise the oil in the ten inches over the side of the ship.

In South America that's par for the course and now transfer of castor oil is really manana of all. so the little tug left with the large lighter full of castor oil and we stay right at the dock for at least another day.

Thursday March 4 1965 Salvador, Brazil

About 9 AM the lighter returns with the aid of same decrepit tug, but a heaither looking tug also shows up and ties on other side of lighter. Step by step, all of the preliminarals were reenacted.

10:30 AM transfer was started with the healthy tug furnishing the steam. I neglected to mention the number of experts needed for the operation C.O. Our ship had 3 officers, and 8 crewmen, the sick tug had crew of five who participated half heatedly, the big tug a crew of 8 who worked at the source with the four on the lighter. On the deck there were 6 stewardors and 6 more in the hold. Then there were standed supervisors, agents and assistants for the ship, ditto for shipper, the customs pepole and the checkers. There were probably more but I went to town. Now you know why a shot of castor oil is so expensive and this is only one little day in its life. Anyway the load of C.O. is for the air france and they are going to give it to their planes.

The C.O. was loaded by two and the ship sailed by 3 PM. I was worn out so I took a nap.

Our next stop is Bridgetown in the British West Indies on the Island of Barbados, 2471 miles away. It will be our longest water span so far.