South American Tour: Rio de Janiero, Brazil

Friday, February 26, 1965 Rio de Janiero, Brazil

We arose at 6:30 AM as the ship was coming into Rio harbor. There were about 40 ships in this Bay of Guanabara waiting for dock space and our ship joined them. Rio is a city of 3,300,000 people it covers an area of 431 square miles and is built on and around 365 mountain peaks with many bays and lagoons. The Santos & union airport for domestic flights is in the down town section and ocean going ships are docked off-port of the main street of the area. 

A word about their money. In "Pan-Am's World Guided," revised in 1961-2 it lists the cruzeiros as 190 to 1 dollar US. In the South American handbook it states that the value had dropped to 920 to 1 dollar US as of 8/14/1963. We exchanged U.S. dollars for 1810 to 1850 while we were there. What a shook to own a home or have money in the bank and watch nearly 90% disappear in less than five years. 

On a tour we visited the Copacabana Beach, the celebrated bathing place, Hunchback Mountain (Corcovado), their one we drove to the top 2330 feet above sea level, the highest of Rio's 365 peaks and on top is a 120 foot statue of Christ the Redeemer. It was a great spot for taking pictures. Twice we tried to take the cable car to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar) but there was a delay of 2 to 3 hours because so many others had same idea.

We made reservations for four at the Copacabana Palace Hotel for dinner at 10 PM and nite show at 12:30. Cover charge 80,000 cruzeiros (about $43.00) for four. At 5 PM we decided to go back to ship to rest and freshen up for our nite on the town. The ship still anchored in Bay so we hired a water taxi for 8,000 cruzeiros. We could have waited until 630 PM and returned in agent's boat for free but we were too exhausted. In fact, we were so warn out that we passed up returning to Copacabana. When we thought of fighting the language barrier for food, water taxi and land taxi, especially at 2 AM we just didn't feel up to it. Coffee from Rio was loaded on the ship from lighters starting at 8 PM. I don't know when they finished their job.

Saturday February 27, 1965 Nite-Roi, Brazil

Sugarloaf

At 6 AM the ship pulled anchor and crossed to other side of bay to dock at the town of Nite-Roi, Capital of the State of Rio de Janiero where more coffee was taken aboard. We rose at 7 grabbed a cup of coffee, went ashore took a taxi to ferry to Rio. There were about 3,000 on their ferry and they run every 15 minutes. It takes about 10 minutes to cross the Bay. Then we took taxi to Sugarloaf to take cable car to top. There was a delay of 1.5 hours but we decided to wait. The trip is made in two stages starting from bahilonia Hill in Praia Vermelha (Red Beaches) to first stop at area 770 feet high. Then we walked across the top and entered a building where we waited forty-five minutes to take another cable car. Finally, our turn came and we went aboard with 20 other passengers. The car travels 2688 feet across land and water haging all of the distance from the cable with no ground support except at each end. At the top of Sugarloaf we are 1300 feet above the Bay from where the mountain rises. At each stop going up and coming down there was a delay to do so many families coming to Rio for the annual carnival which starts today. At noon and lasts until midnight Tuesday - actually each year until the beginning of Ash Wednesday. It was quite a day very humib and very hot in the direct sunlight. Distant scenes will not by too good in the pictures. I took because of the heavy haze. 

Before we left we were noted that ship would sail at three, so we were concerned about connections we would have to make getting out of Rio and the inevitable delays. There's a real language barrier in Portuguese speaking Brazil and it worsens when one is in a hurry, because with these people as with the Spanish it's always "Manana." The connections clicked and we were back on ship at 2 PM. Nevertheless, it had taken us 6.5 hours to make the round trip. The ship left the dock at 4:15 PM and sailed out of Guanabara Bay into the Atlantic at 5:10 heading for and due in Salvador (Bahia) Brazil) 748 miles Northeast, Monday Night.

South American Tour: Balboa, Panama (1964-1965)

Monday, December 28, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

We were on our way to Balboa Canal Zone at 5:30 am, so I am told. Millie and I slept until 10. Lazy day, smooth sea. Saw lots of fish, porpoise, sail fish, tarpon. I swam in ship's pool this PM. The water from the sea was a delightful 75 degrees. We are in sight of land most of the time.

Tuesday, December 29, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

Slept late. Awoek with headache and upset stomach. Millie not feeling too good. Later we felt we had picked up a bug in the salad we ate for lunch at the Hilton in Acapulco. We have and will continue to refraing from drinking water or milk when off ship. Also to leave fresh vegetables and fruits alone. I thought perhaps the Hilton could control their products but apparently not. I slept most of the afternoon and ate little dinner.

Wednesday, December 30, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

Decided to get up for breakfast instead of sleeping. On our previous trip we had access to pantry and we could prepare toast and coffee. On this ship the pantry is locked. So we will probably get up in the future. We both feel ill and to make matters worse we had run into a gale making the sea rough. However, it did not pitch or rock as much as the Flying fish. We went back to bed after breakfast. Got up for a big lunch and went back to bed. Got up and dressed for cocktail and enjoyed a good dinner. The wind went down with the sun and the sea became smooth again. Everyone went on deck it was most delightful. Due in Balboa, Canal Zone Friday noon. Played Bingo in the lounge until ten, then had a gab-fest for the late go-to-bedders.

Thursday, December 31, 1964 Enroute to Balboa

Weather balmy, sea smooth, saw land on port side. Every once in a while. Captain gave cocktail party at 5 PM in lounge. Dinner at six. After dinner had more drinks in lounge Bea Finnerty was doing a solo dance in stocking feet on slippery tile floor when she slipped and fell on shoulder and a gash over right eye. Frantz, the Chief Steward patched her up. Then we slipped away to the officers mess to celebrate New Years Eve.

Friday, January 1, 1965 Balboa, Panama

Miraflores Locks

We opened the new day and the new year with parking the ship at 6 am out in the Bay of Panama - expecting to be there all day. However, a pilot came out and the ship was docked. We took taxi with Finnerty's, five other passengers another taxi. All of us were going to visit some noted park. On the way we saw a sign inviting visitors to see the Miraflores Locks on the Pacific side of Canal so we left the other five. On the side of the locks there is an observatory which overlooks the locks which is glass enclosed and covered, with a bilingual guide to talk about the operation and answer questions. We watched ships going in each direction thru the two locks at that point. We returned to Balboa Railroad station to take the train for the 48 mile ride across the continental seaside (271 Elv) and Isthmus to Cólon and Cristóbal. We walked about 12 blocks thru Cólon to Sea. Washington Hotel for lunch and discovered we were too late and too early for dinner. Took Taci back to yacht Club in Cristóbal where we had an excellent broiled lobster meal - $200 panama is the only country which does not have any paper money of its own. If they did it would be called Balboa, but they use Us paper money instead. Pretty smart as then no fluctuation. We took a taxi ride around the two towns and then back to RR station for return to Balboa at 6:30 (from coast to coast and return in an afternoon)

Train to Colon

Saturday, January 2, 1965 Balboa, Panama

Balboa

Posted time for sailing was 12 noon, so we hustled away by taxi for Panama City in Republic of Panama which is about 3 miles from Balboa. There are many excellent shops, drug stores/farmacias, and a number of camera stores. We made the rounds and taxied back to ship. It was still unloading. We had lunch and sailing time postponed to 2:30 PM. I walked about 1/2 mile to Balboa Post Office to mail film for processing. Al-tho the canal zone was in U.S. territory, U.S. Stamps are no good for postage, it must be Canal Zone Stamps - probably printed in Wash DC. When I returned found sailing time had been set back again. Millie and Finnerty's had gone into Panama City looking for me on the way but I had wandered off the beaten track to take some pictures. In late afternoon, we visited the United Fruit boat tethered on other side of our dock. The passengers were quite unhappy. They had inspected our ship in the morning and had seen passenger accommodations. They had no air conditioning, cabins were cramped, windows were port holes, and they were told while we were there that they would have to leave the ship to go to hotel and wait for another ship which would take them to Baltimore and pay their own expense from there. Originally they expected to return to New Orleans. We sailed at 6:15 pm. It was a beautiful balmy evening.

South American Tour - 1964-1965

Introduction: Ernest Redfield Saegart was my great grandfather. He was the only son of Arthur Eugene Saegart and Cora (Sackett) Saegart. He was born April 28, 1898 Connecticut maybe Windsor township, though he and died December 9, 1966 in Sun City, Arizona. At the age of 12 they moved to Washington D.C. He married Mildred (Elwell) Saegart and lived in Cheyenne, Wyoming in the 1920-1930s then to Denver. They had one son William Saegart. In 1965, he and Mildred (Millie) took a tour of South America. He cataloged it in a journal. I am going to share it. 

How did it happen?

For a number of years whenever Millie and I were in a coastal town we haunted the docks seeking permission to search and inspect Ocean-going ships. In May 1963 we were in San Francisco on a motor trip  to British Columbia. I had just retired the first of that month so time was what we had plenty of- we thought.

Following our customary providence we were meandering around the wharf. Spotting an I talented freighter we asked for permission to board and we were so escorted around the ship by a member of the crew who was probably looking for a small honorarium. Disembarking we stood at the end of the gangplank gazing at the paint-denied hull and recapping the advantages of what we had seen of the accommodations for the passengers. It left more than a great deal to be desired.

A bystander apparently a seaman and waare of our topic of conversation, from in with the suggestion that we look at the Norwegian freighter berthed just ahead on the same dock. The guide let us on the ship and we wandered around by ourselves. In the lounge we found a lady passenger conversing with a local friend. The passenger showed us her cabin and told us the rest of the passengers were ashore. We were favorably impressed with clean, neat and tidy manner in which the ship was kept. Everything appeared to be shipshape for pleasant living at sea. The ship's name was "Porsanger:" Continuing our inspection we passed the captain's quarter and he came to the door to ask if we could be of assistance. He called the fright manager, Alan Skellenger. We told him we would like to know more about the steam ship line. He said that all info and sales was handled by General Steamship Corporation, Ltd. Onc beach St. , San Fransisco and that he would give them our names and address. Mrs. Ruth Durkin wrote to our Denver Address on May 9, 1963 and sent a copy to Empress Hotel, Victoria B.C. Canada due to unforeseen calamity we never go to the latter place. Trusting from her letter, "The Westfal-Larsen Line offers one sailing per month of a line 12 passenger Norwegian vessel on a round trip cruise from San Francisco down the West Coast of South America through the Strait of Magellan to Buenos Aires. Then up the East Coast to Trinidad though the Panama Canal to San Francisco, making many ports of call en route. However, all passenger accomodations are booked from August 1963 thru April 1964. 

After an exchange of several letters a deposit was sent July 6, 1963 for a R.T. on M/S Porsanger departing in December 1964.

Shortly thereafter Mrs. Durkin wrote that there was a cancellation of a Round the World Cruise on an Isbrandtsen sailing in November, 1963. We decided to take it and keep the SA trip also - at least until we found how we liked freighter travel. It's wonderful and that's another story. Concidence on 2/21/65 we had completed the cruising of Pacific Ocean on World Cruise and entered the Goldan Gate. The first ship we saw in the harber was the M/S Porsanger leaving the harbor on one of the regular voyages.

Here is a list of the schedule:

Schedule Page 1

Schedule Page 2