South American Tour: Salvador, Brazil

Sunday, February 28, 1965 Enroute to Salavador, Brazil

Millie was sick with upset stomach during night and stayed in bed until dinnertime. Though quite warm, the wind blew at gale proportions and made the deck uncomfortable and the sea very rough.

Monday, March 1, 1965 Salavador, Brazil

Sea much more calm. The temperature of the sea at noon was 88° and of the air 84°. At that time we were exactly 15° south of the equator -- 900 miles. Actually the ship will travel quite a bit farther to reach the equator as it will go in a northwesterly direction as soon as it passes the bulge on Brazil's eastern shore line.

The ship approached Salavado about 8 PM. From the ship, the extensive lighting seemed to indicate quite a city. At 9 PM the anchor was dropped a mile of shore and the passengers knew that was it for the day.

Sao Salavador da Bahia de Todos os Santos to give the town its full name is the capital of Bahia state and fourth largest city in Brazil. The population is about 700,000. The city is divided into two sections with the Baica or lower part and the alta or higher part on a small plateau some 200 feet above. The lower city has the commercial quarter and the picturesque market with its negro vendors. The government building, shopping district, hotels and restaurants area are in the upper city reached by motor roads and four elevators and two cable car systems.

Tuesday, March 2, 1965 Salavador, Brazil

One note very few people with white skin here. It is claimed Brazil is the best or worse integrated country in the world and here is the best or worse city. The South American handbook (1965) states that in all of Brazil 61% are white and multiracial about 21% and 15% black.

It's the last day of the "Carnival" and our ship is still anchored out in the bay. Nine of us boarded a water taxi for shore, took an elevator to upper level area and walked over to the central square. There was a temporary reviewing stand with a large platform for the entertainers. It was 10 AM and there was only impromptu dancing going on and only a few in the stand. We asked the soldiers on duty if we could rest in the stand and take pictures. The Vector Bradford our new passengers handled the language barrier easily. They have lived in Argentina for years. They were told to go to their headquarters - about 200 feet away - and get a pass. Imagine our surprise when we learned the passes were good until midnight.

We entered the stand at 11 am and picked seats shaded by large trees. Still only a few people in stand. Millie and I staged until 7 PM. Most of our group remained until 11 PM. It was one continuous round of rhythm dancing by one group followed by another each allowed about 10 minutes. The populace were certainly on their best behavior which was unusual for a carnival. However we learned that the sale of liquor is forbidden during carnival time, which helps a lot. Also, there were many police stationed around. It was apparent that they were well trained from the way of handling the crowds and the individuals. I have never seen so many people packed so tightly in such small places. I took lots of movies.

Wednesday March 3 1965 Salvador, Brazil

"Ash Wednesday" Lent has started and the S.A. Carnivals are over until next year. Our ship came into dock in early morning and we are spared the trouble of securing a water taxi. The Fennertys, Millie and I took a taxi tour of the town and we were highly impressed by the beautiful homes and excellent landscaping.

Our ship is to take on a load - 700 tons of castor oil at the port, but no one seems to know where the oil is and the local agent can't be located.  The oil showed up late in the afternoon in a lighter being towed across the bay with a most decrepit tug. It took an hour and a half to get the large load in place and anchored, the steam line for pressure was broken and had to be extensively unpaired and other details. Then the crew wanted to attach the steam line to our ship's system. Our vessel is a motor ship (diesel) and not a steam ship. The only steam we have is a small boiler for hot water and not big enough to operate the steam pump on the lighter to raise the oil in the ten inches over the side of the ship.

In South America that's par for the course and now transfer of castor oil is really manana of all. so the little tug left with the large lighter full of castor oil and we stay right at the dock for at least another day.

Thursday March 4 1965 Salvador, Brazil

About 9 AM the lighter returns with the aid of same decrepit tug, but a heaither looking tug also shows up and ties on other side of lighter. Step by step, all of the preliminarals were reenacted.

10:30 AM transfer was started with the healthy tug furnishing the steam. I neglected to mention the number of experts needed for the operation C.O. Our ship had 3 officers, and 8 crewmen, the sick tug had crew of five who participated half heatedly, the big tug a crew of 8 who worked at the source with the four on the lighter. On the deck there were 6 stewardors and 6 more in the hold. Then there were standed supervisors, agents and assistants for the ship, ditto for shipper, the customs pepole and the checkers. There were probably more but I went to town. Now you know why a shot of castor oil is so expensive and this is only one little day in its life. Anyway the load of C.O. is for the air france and they are going to give it to their planes.

The C.O. was loaded by two and the ship sailed by 3 PM. I was worn out so I took a nap.

Our next stop is Bridgetown in the British West Indies on the Island of Barbados, 2471 miles away. It will be our longest water span so far.