South American Tour: Rio de Janiero, Brazil

Friday, February 26, 1965 Rio de Janiero, Brazil

We arose at 6:30 AM as the ship was coming into Rio harbor. There were about 40 ships in this Bay of Guanabara waiting for dock space and our ship joined them. Rio is a city of 3,300,000 people it covers an area of 431 square miles and is built on and around 365 mountain peaks with many bays and lagoons. The Santos & union airport for domestic flights is in the down town section and ocean going ships are docked off-port of the main street of the area. 

A word about their money. In "Pan-Am's World Guided," revised in 1961-2 it lists the cruzeiros as 190 to 1 dollar US. In the South American handbook it states that the value had dropped to 920 to 1 dollar US as of 8/14/1963. We exchanged U.S. dollars for 1810 to 1850 while we were there. What a shook to own a home or have money in the bank and watch nearly 90% disappear in less than five years. 

On a tour we visited the Copacabana Beach, the celebrated bathing place, Hunchback Mountain (Corcovado), their one we drove to the top 2330 feet above sea level, the highest of Rio's 365 peaks and on top is a 120 foot statue of Christ the Redeemer. It was a great spot for taking pictures. Twice we tried to take the cable car to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar) but there was a delay of 2 to 3 hours because so many others had same idea.

We made reservations for four at the Copacabana Palace Hotel for dinner at 10 PM and nite show at 12:30. Cover charge 80,000 cruzeiros (about $43.00) for four. At 5 PM we decided to go back to ship to rest and freshen up for our nite on the town. The ship still anchored in Bay so we hired a water taxi for 8,000 cruzeiros. We could have waited until 630 PM and returned in agent's boat for free but we were too exhausted. In fact, we were so warn out that we passed up returning to Copacabana. When we thought of fighting the language barrier for food, water taxi and land taxi, especially at 2 AM we just didn't feel up to it. Coffee from Rio was loaded on the ship from lighters starting at 8 PM. I don't know when they finished their job.

Saturday February 27, 1965 Nite-Roi, Brazil

Sugarloaf

At 6 AM the ship pulled anchor and crossed to other side of bay to dock at the town of Nite-Roi, Capital of the State of Rio de Janiero where more coffee was taken aboard. We rose at 7 grabbed a cup of coffee, went ashore took a taxi to ferry to Rio. There were about 3,000 on their ferry and they run every 15 minutes. It takes about 10 minutes to cross the Bay. Then we took taxi to Sugarloaf to take cable car to top. There was a delay of 1.5 hours but we decided to wait. The trip is made in two stages starting from bahilonia Hill in Praia Vermelha (Red Beaches) to first stop at area 770 feet high. Then we walked across the top and entered a building where we waited forty-five minutes to take another cable car. Finally, our turn came and we went aboard with 20 other passengers. The car travels 2688 feet across land and water haging all of the distance from the cable with no ground support except at each end. At the top of Sugarloaf we are 1300 feet above the Bay from where the mountain rises. At each stop going up and coming down there was a delay to do so many families coming to Rio for the annual carnival which starts today. At noon and lasts until midnight Tuesday - actually each year until the beginning of Ash Wednesday. It was quite a day very humib and very hot in the direct sunlight. Distant scenes will not by too good in the pictures. I took because of the heavy haze. 

Before we left we were noted that ship would sail at three, so we were concerned about connections we would have to make getting out of Rio and the inevitable delays. There's a real language barrier in Portuguese speaking Brazil and it worsens when one is in a hurry, because with these people as with the Spanish it's always "Manana." The connections clicked and we were back on ship at 2 PM. Nevertheless, it had taken us 6.5 hours to make the round trip. The ship left the dock at 4:15 PM and sailed out of Guanabara Bay into the Atlantic at 5:10 heading for and due in Salvador (Bahia) Brazil) 748 miles Northeast, Monday Night.

South American Tour: Paranagua, Curitiba, Sao Paulo, Santos Brazil

Sunday, February 21, 1965 - Paranagua Brazil

Early Sunday morning we arrived in Paranagua, Brazil lying on a lagoon like harbor. The port is 18 miles from the open sea and is approached via the bay of Paranagua. It is a town of 18,500 and not too well known but it is the main seaport for paraguay which does not have one of it's own. At 1 PM we took the train for Curitiba, a city of 360,000 inhabitants and 3,000 feet above sea level. The trip took eight hours. It was a beautiful day. The train windows were wide open. The railroad is built mostly over bridges and considered a major engineering feat. We took Taxi to Hotel Lord where the ship's agent at Paranagua had phoned for reservations

Monday, February 22, 1965 - Curitiba, Brazil

In the morning we toured the town by taxi. It is the capital of the state of Parana which determines its economic prosperity from expensive coffee plantations in the North and East, timber forests in the southwest. At 12:30 PM we took the bus for Sao Paulo which is 250 miles away, all of it over mountain highways. We arrived at 8:30 PM.

Tuesday, February 23, 1965 - Sao Paulo, Brazil

Sao Paulo is the fastest growing city in the world - a house is built every 8 minutes and the largest metropolitan in South America - 3,850,000 population. Here there are 8000 restaurants and 184 movie houses. The city occupies 627 square miles of a high plateau, 1,675 feet above sea level which gives it a pleasant temperate climate. We stayed at the Excelsior Hotel - excellent accommodations. We took several tours and still did not get to see it all. Our Portuguese being nil, we had our language barriers all over again. We did have a car driver who could speak good English.

Wednesday, February 24, 1965 - Santos, Brazil

Packed, had breakfast, taxied to bus station to take bus to Santos where we could rejoin ship expected to leave at 10:30 AM, but bus was sold out so we waited for the 11:30 one, which left at 11:45.

The distance is only 40 miles and over good roads. The highways are usually much better than city streets. The highways are not wide but are paved an city streets are cobblestones. Try that in a 1940 taxi.

As we entered the city the bus was caught in a terrific traffic jam, caused by two trucks colliding, one turning over on a Volkswagen and spilling its load of heavy cases all over the street.

Finally, got into town and the bus driver put us off quite close to our dock. We didn't know that, but a five minute taxi convinced us.

Thursday, February 25, 1965 - Santos, Brazil

Santos is the leading coffee port of the world and is the gateway for Sao Paulo. It handles 24.4% of all Brazilian shipping traffic. Santos has a population of 300,000. The business area is somewhat decrepit, but the residential part is a real surprise with a large number of apartments facing a beach at least 20 miles long. After a tour we returned to ship and sailed at 5 PM for Rio.

South American Tour to Parangua Brazil

Thursday February 18th 1965 Buenos Aries, Argentine - Paranagua, Brazil

Sailing day, after 13 days in Buenos Aries a few comments before we leave. At night cars and busses drive without lights. Only at the very busiest intersections are there traffic signals. When cars and busses approach the blacked out intersection of which there are hundreds, the driver flashes his headlights on several times and gives the car the gas. Its amazing how many near misses and few direct hits. No parking meters. Tile sidewalks, but full of holes. Government Offices and banks are open on five day week. Banks are open 12 noon to 330 PM -- and are they busy! It takes 20 minutes to make a deposit after one reaches the teller's window. Daylight saving is in effect the year around. There were 268 labor strikes in 365 days.

We arose at 8 AM. Millie took off after breakfast to do some last minute shopping. I checked at hotel desk to learn how much the bill would be and then walked about six blocks to my favorite Dambio (money changer). I bought one hundred U.S. dollars of Argentine Pesos. The exchange  was 232 to $1.00, it was 210 when we arrived two weeks ago. The official rate is 152 to $1.00 U.S. We had an early lunch at hotel, brought our baggage down and then said, "Goodbyes." to the many friends and hotel employees. There are 8 passengers staging at the Dora. We enjoyed our stay immensely and the price for double room with twin beds and private bath including takes is less than $6 per day. The agent's cars and trucks picked us up at 1:30 PM and brought us to the ship. We did not have to go thru customs. The baggage was delivered right in our cabin. We had paid for this $400 - in our ticket purchase. It also includes radio gram between ship and agent to make reservations for rooms at hotel of our choice in time to secure them. We have a new couple on board who are replacing the Mortins. They are British subjects who have lived in Argentine for most of their lives. The ship sailed at 6 PM.

Friday February 19, 1965 Enroute to Parangua Brazil

Today we returned to our ship routine of sleeping, eating talking. The temperature of the sea is 75° and the air 73°. At noon the ship was placed at 34° 58" Latitude and 53°50" West Longitude.

Saturday February 20, 1965 Enroute to Parangua Brazil

The afternoon was spent by the Finnertys and Saegarts in preparing to host the passengers, Captain and chief Return Voyage Champagne Party. It started at 5 with champagne and hors d'oeuvres, white and red wine for dinner and liqueurs after dinner.

South American Tour: Buenos Aires

I have located the section section of the written by Ernest during a trip around South America. He was accompanied by his wife Mildred The last entry of the previous book and post was February 9, 1965. The second section picks up on February 10, 1965 in Buenos Aires.

Wednesday, February 10, 1965 Buenos Aires

Mapa!

Shopping continues as if it were going out of style. I took a solo walk on avenida Santa Fe which runs north just one block from the hotel. Continued on into Callas tunnel left and came to Nueve de Julio (9th of July) which is said to be the widest street in the world and I guess it is. It has two 100 feet wide malls on it besides, three separate highways, and wide sidewalks in front of the buildings with tables and chairs at cafes for outdoor eating and drinking. I returned to hotel via Charcas. We went with two other couples for dinner at 9 to a very famous steak house. It was very informal, all the men removed their coats. The steaks were large, juicy, thick and tender. Four had wine. Millie and I had a bottle of water. Water is never served at the table in S.A It needs to be ordered "con gas" (carbonated) or "sin gas". It usuallly costs more than a bottle of wine.

Thursday, February 11, 1965 Buenos Aires

Map on Reverse Side

In A.M. Millie shopped. I slept to noon we learned the rules had been changed and we had to have Brazilian Visas, so we went to the Consul's Office which is only a block from the Dora Hotel. It did not open until 2 P.M. and by that time there were more than 100 waiting to get in. We filled out the printed (in Portuguese) form and then learned we needed 3 pictures each. They were on the ship and we couldn't go into our cabin as it is sealed by customs. So we had our pictures taken again in passport form. The visas were to be picked up at 4 P.M. tomorrow. We went to El Mundo (the World) for dinner. There were 7 of us. All had 1.5" steaks, no plain water, only carbonated. The others had wine. Mille and I don't care for it so we buy water, its more expensive than wine.

Friday, February 12, 1965 Buenos Aires

Lincoln's Birthday but not mentioned in local papers. Weather good, very warm during mid day. BA is between 34 degrees & 35 degrees south latitude approximately the same as Los Angeles, Clovis, New Mexico, and Hot Springs Arkansas which are the same degrees north latitude. Shopping spree continues.

Saturday, February 13, 1965 Buenos Aires

Slept late, had lunch and took the Tigre River tour. A bus picked us up at hotel and drove us thru the suburbs to the town of tigre, 20 miles from B.A. Here we boarded a 60 foot launch which carries about 60 passengers. It was a very unique trip. Meandering amidst the rivers and steams lined with gathering, rowing and other clubs. It was quite peaceful. There were hundreds of summer homes along the banks, each with their private dock and boat. Water taxes are available for the residents and also carry mail and supplies. There are dozens of callegrate type racing shells, made of mahogany with one to eight seats for rowing and one for coxswain on all the streams. The water is coffee color but that doesn't deter the simmers. We are told that the water clears up slightly, but still remains coffee color.

Sunday, February 14, 1965 Buenos Aires

Valentine's Day not recognized in So America. Another tour today, this time in Pinar Azul, an old ranch which has been fixed up and used as a show place of Argentine ranch life of the past. Beer, wine and soft drinks were served an appetizers and then a four course luncheon of barbecued beef and lamb. There were four bussed and eight taxies which brought people to the fiesta. While watching a Gaucho dance I found Bob Joyce standing beside me. He retired from Denver Public Service in 1/1/1965 and was our Director of Employment. He is on a plane tour of S.A. with Mrs. Joyce.

50 Pesos Argentine worth approx 24 U.S. cents. We bought the pesos a 210/232. On 7/3/1963 the rate was 132.50 to $1 - US. 

Monday, February 15, 1965 Buenos Aires

We went to ship agent's office to record our newly acquired visas for Brazil. They, the Brazilian officials are apparently very fussy about the whereabouts of foreigners. In Brazil if we decide to leave the ship to take a side trip which requires being overnight - then we better be away. Such a move is duly recorded at the agent's office and reported to the police and we can't come back until the date stated in manifest. Another oddity no meat served on Mondays & Tuesdays in restaurants in Argentina. This is to save if for export. 

We taxed around town to take pictures. Camera jammed so we came back to hotel. It was too hot anyway - no air-conditioned taxis in SA. The camera wasn't jammed. I had come to the end of a 20 exposure roll and I thought I was using a 36 exposure. While we were out we walked along 9 de Julio (Widest Street) for Millie was interested in the shop windows.

Tuesday, February, 16 1965 Buenos Aires

Walked over to Harrod's Department Store - two blocks from hotel to get a hair cut. It had one of the largest barbershops I have ever been in. Sixteen chairs and room for twice that many. Wall of room and pillars are white marble. Cost of hair cut - 120 pesos- very high for BA = 54 U.S. cents.

Wednesday, February 17, 1965 Buenos Aires 

Our departure from B.A, has been changed from 3 P.M. to 1:30 P.M. tomorrow. We have decided to leave ship at Paragagua (pronounced: Para-na-gwahi) our next stop, 780 miles North in Brazil and take a taxi to Curitiba, stay overnight and then take a bus to Sao Paulo, stay two nights and then bus to Santos to rejoin ship. All of this was carefully recorded by Purser on 17 copies more or less (Spanish equivalent for "Damned, if I know" ) turned over to Captain who passed it to Bergen, Norway (ships homeport) for distrubution. The Finnertys, Nelson's and Dorothy Willson were making similar jaunts but not identical so we gave those concerned quite a work out. The agent who apparently summarized all the trips told us it took him and secretary three hours to fill out the manifest for the Spanish cruise.